Shoe structure



Jan.'22, 1929. 1,699,913

' 5.. J. PENTLER ET AL SHOE STRUCTURE Filed Aug. 6, 1927 o'aww 'gmzmdJFezZJer Patented an. 22, 1929.

PATENT OFFICE.

SIG'MUND J. PENTIER AND OTTO ZR. SHORT, OF WAUSA'U, WISCONSIN.

SHOE STRUCTURE.

Application filed August 6, 192?. Serial No. 211,159.

This invention pertains to an improvement in shoe structures, and more particularly to an improved Welt for that type of shoe oi the general stitch-down class.

The invention has priiuarily for its oloject to proi ide'an improved type of Welt, Whereby maximum lightness and strength is ob tained Without ailecting the flexibility or the shoe so highly essential to the comfort of the pair of a shoe by permitting thewelt to be retained in positien 'onthe upper after the outsole is removed for replacement. l t

A still further object is to provide an unproved structure of insole of minimum thickness, and which is highly flexible a iauows forthe desirable features of the Goodyear Welt and yet eliminates the necessity efa liller. y y ,With the above and othero'bjects "in View, which will appear as the description proceeds, the invention resides in the novel construction, combination and arrangement of parts, substantially as hereinafter described and more particu'larlydefihed by the appended claims, it being understood that such changes in the precise embodiment of the herein disclosed invention may be made come within the scope of "the claiins.

ln the accompanying drawings is illuse ti'ated one complete example of the physical enibodiinentot the present intention constructed accordingtothe best mode so fardevised for the practical application of the principles thereof. a

Figure 1 is a fragmentary perspectit' e View of a shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention, and partly in section to any illustrate the structural details.

Figure 2 is a similar View of a modified form of the invention, and

Figure 3 is a fragmentary perspective View, partly in section, 1llustrat1ng the manner in which the insole is formed and the upper attached thereto. a y

Reremng now more particularly to the accoinpanying drawings, the present invention,

as illustrated, isapplied to that general class of shoe structures commonly termed stitch: down, wherein the edge of the upper is turned outwardly andsecured to the outsole bynieans of a Welt strip positioned on the outturned edge oi the upper and stitched through to the outer sole. The numeral 1 designates the upper, and While the lining is omitted in the present illustration for the purpose of simplicity, it will be readily understootl that the 831119 ivould beeniployed in most instances, its presence or omission in no Way affecting the essential features of the invention. A c

Instead of the large single elt strip einployed in conventional stitchdown shoes, it

is proposed to use a WeltEZ formed from a comparatively thin strip of material, p'reien ably leather, and toldedupon itself to provide upper and lower flaps 3 and 4, respectively. By this construction it Will hereadily seen that a very thin strip "of material may be eniployefd, which, by folding upon itself, otters maximum strength and at the same time great flexibility.

n order to facilitate repair or the shoe,

and particularly resoli'ng, it is essential to secure the Welt to the upper independently of the fastening means which secures the outsole. This is accomplished in the present instance by a line of stitching Which passes through the fold of the Welt strip 9, the upper 1, and the in'sole'fi. Thus it 'Will be seen that both the upper and the Welt strip are securely attached to the ins0le,per1nitting removal of the outso'le 't'vithout afiieeting the Welt, which is highly desirable repairing a shoe, as the operation or properly attaching the Welt is a ditlicult one, andone Which has always caused repair Inen considerable trouble in connection with conventional stitch-down types of shoes.

7 In addition to facilitating repair of the shoe, the stitching 5 also serves to retain the original shape of the shoe, as the upper is securely held in place against spreading.

In forming the insole 6 the edge is first cut away to provide a comparatively thin exs tension 7 and a marginal shoulder 8 against which the upper and Welt strip are held dur ing the inseaining or attaching operation. Heretofore it has been common practice in the manufactiiire of insoles to form a shouldered extension of considerable thickness on the marginal edge of the insole and then skive or channel towards the shoulder, from the inside of the sole, to providea channel opposite the shoulder to allow the inseaming operation. By this method the inseaining passes through what might be termed the in-between matcrialthat is, the material between the shoulder and the inner edge oil: the channel or groove, and not through the lip proper.

This requires an extremely thick insole in order to provide sufliclent material to hold.

, the stitching which secures the upper, and a shoulder of suliicient depth against which to hold the upper when inseznning.

As stated in the prec ding objects, the present invention aims to overcome objectionable features of conventional insoles constructed in accordance with the foregoing description, by the provision of a sole of 1nini mum thickness and a comparatively thin lip to which the upper is attached. This is accomplished by cutting away the marginal edge a maximum depth to form the shoulder 8, and thereafter forming a comparatively thin lip 9 by chanellinlg or cutting the sole outwardly, it loein particularly noted that the channel formecf by cutting the lip is con siderably below the plane of the shoulder 8, as clearly shown in Figure 3. i

The foregoing structure permits an exceptionally thin insole to be used, and at the same time allows a maximum marginal surface against which to hold the upperduring the inseaming operation. This results in a very light, flexible sole, and considerable saving in material. Also, due to the fact that only a very thin lip is required, the bottom of the insole is exceptionally flat, thus eliminating the necessity of a filler.

It will also be seen that the upper is in seamed to the flap 9 proper and not through the material between the inner end of the channel and the shoulder 8. In ordinary structures this would not be practical as the relatively thin lip providedin the present instance would be insufiicient to hold the upper. However, in the present invention this structure is permissible, in that a second row of stitching is provided which passes through the lower flap 4-. of the welt strip 2, the outturned edge of the upper, and the outsole. In addition to the stitching 10 for securing the welt, upper, and outsole, a second "row of stitching 11 employed which passes through both flaps of the wel Thus it will be seen that the upperis held by two rows of stitching independent of that which secures it to the flap 9 thus relievingstrain on. the

flap and permitting the same to be of a minimum thickness. In ynractice, a canvas lining is cemented to the underside of the insole and serves as a reinforcement for the lip 9, but inasmuch as this forms no part of the present invention, the same is omitted from the drawing.

It will further be appreciated that by use of the double flap welt two rows of stitching may be employed for securing the welt, upper, and outsole., without detracting from the appearance of the shoe by having two rows of stitching visible on the welt strip, which would resultin a heavy, cumbersome appearance. Further, in that the stitching passing through the lower lip may be post tioned close to the fold of the welt, an extremely close edge may be had without detracting from the strength of the shoe.

Also, in some instances, where a very light shoe is desired, the upper flap 3 may be socured by gluing or cementing, instead of stitching, although in heavier types or shoes where the maximum strength is desired, the two rows of stitching through the welt, upper, and outsole, are employed.

The only distinction between the struc tures illustrated in the accompanying drawing resides in the fact that the middle sole 12, illust 'ated in Figure 1, is eliminated in the modification shown in Fi ure 2. Where the middle sole is employed, the row of stitching 10 passing through the lower flap 4 of the welt need not necessarily go through the outsole, as one of the primary features of this securing means is to cooperate with the stitching 5 and 11 to securely hold the upper,

and this is accomplished equally as well by merely stitching through the welt flap a, the upper, and the middle sole 12. Also, in some instances, this may be desirable, as it entirely eliminates any visibility of the stitches 10, which gives the shoe a light and neat appearance.

While the stitches have been referredfto throughout the preceding description, it is to be understood that any suitable means of attachin may be employed, such as staples, or the like, without departing from the invention.

From the foregoingit is obviousthat an exceptionally strong and flexible shoe has been provided, which is neat in appearance, easy to repair, and which will retain its original shape for a long period.

We claim 1. A shoe structure comprising an upper having an outturned edge, an insole, a welt formed from a strip of relatively thin material folded upon itself, securing means passing through the fold of said welt, the

upper, and the insole, an outsole, securing means passing through the lower flap only of the welt, the outturned edge of the upper, and the outsole, and a line of stitching passing through both flaps ot the welt, outturned edge of the upper, and the outsole.

2. A shoe construction comprising an upper having an out-turned edge, an insole provided with a relatively thin marginal extenlib ion

sion to, fOI'In a shoulder around the entire edge of the tread portion and a relatively thin lip formed by channelingthe insole adjacent its edge, a welt strip formed of a strip ol material folded upon itself to form upper and lower flaps, a row of stitching passing through the fold of said welt strip, the upper, and the lip of said insole, a second sole adjacent the insole and engaged by the outturned edge of the upper, securing means passing through the lower flap only of the welt, the outturned edge the upper and said second sole, and a line ot stitching passing through the Welt, the outturned edge of the upper and said second sole.

3. A shoe construction comprising an up formed by channeling the insole adjacent its edge, the inner end of said channel lying in of the upper and said second sole, and a line o1 stitching passing through both flaps of the welt strip, the outturned edge of the upper, and the second sole.

, In testimony that we claim the foregoing we have hereunto set our handsat Wansau, in the county of Marathon and State of Wisconsin;

srennnn J. PENTLER. orro n. snonr. 

